Mount Aconcagua
World 7 Summits

Elevation :
6962m (22,841 ft)

Difficulty :
Intermediate

Duration :
17 Days

Location :
Andes Range, Argentina

Mount Aconcagua at 6960.8m and located entirely in Argentina, Mount Aconcagua is the tallest mountain in the Americas and the highest outside Asia. Its South Wall is considered one of the most emblematic in the Southern Hemisphere. According to recent statistics, around 6,000 to 7,000 people per season attempt to reach the summit.The hypoxia of high altitude, often paired with rapid ascent profiles, places climbers at risk for pathologies framed within what is known as high altitude illnesses. Altitude-related maladies such as AMS, HAPE and HACE are seen on a daily basis (please refer to the UIAA Medical Commission advice on these subjects).

The classic description of the mountain as a “trekking peak” is a mistaken notion. The changing weather conditions (especially strong winds and low temperatures) and the circumstances of hypoxia, added to the lack of experience of some mountaineers, create a cocktail that can raise the technical difficulty considerably.

Routes

There are different routes to climb Aconcagua, from the fearsome south face, passing through the west face, the southwest ridge, the southeast ridge, the Polish glacier and even the normal route. There are also numerous variants. All this technical information can be found written in the published climbing guides that exist. Some of these are:

• ABC Aconcagua by Heber Orona (2010) Ed. Cavier Bleu. In English and Spanish.
• Aconcagua the summit of America by Mauricio Fernandez (2008). In English and Spanish.
• Aconcagua a climbing guide by R. J. Secor (1999), Ed. Mountaineers book. In English.

The following text details only the two most regular routes at present. These are:

• Normal Route, through the Horcones Valley entrance
• 360° route through the Vacas valley entrance

Both options of ascent have similar technical difficulties, varying in duration and the geographic route.

Route Description – Horcones Valley Entrance

The following itinerary is one of the examples to ascend through the Horcones Valley. This programme is one of the most famous since it aims to prevent altitude-related complications such as AMS, HAPE, or HACE by promoting a well-balanced adjustment to the environment.

These conditions can be fatal, which is why it is crucial to emphasise the importance of the following acclimatisation plan. Please also refer to the UIAA video content at the foot of this paper.

Schedule

Day 0 Arrival to Mendoza city (750m)
Day 1 Transfer by car to Penitentes (2500m) or Puente de Inca (2700m)
Day 2 Entrance to Horcones and hike to Confluencia Camp (3400m)
Day 3 Hike to Plaza Francia viewpoint (4000m) and return to Confluencia (3400m)
Day 4 Hike to Plaza de Mulas (Base Camp or BC) 4350m
Day 5 Rest Day at BC (4350m)
Day 6 Carrying gear to Camp 1 (5000 m) and return to BC (4350m)
Day 7 Rest Day at BC (4350m). Some groups ascend Cerro Bonete (5004m) this day
Day 8 Ascent to Camp 1 (5000m)
Day 9 Ascent to Camp 2 (5400m)
Day 10 Rest day at Camp 2 (5400m)
Day 11 Ascent to Camp 3 (5960m)
Day 12 Summit attempt
Day 13 Extra day
Day 14 Extra day
Day 15 Extra day
Day 16 Descent to BC (4350m)
Day 17 Descent to the entrance of Horcones (2800m) and return to the city of Mendoza

World’s Seven Summits